Rock climbing in Arkansas

Amazing sport climbing can be found at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

If you're looking for tons of moderate, well-bolted, super-fun sport climbs look no further than, of all places, a dude ranch in the heart of Arkansas.

Cowboys on horseback, nightly rodeo displays and goats being herded by an assortment of dogs are just some of the things that make this a truly unique climbing destination. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is in a valley, surrounded on three sides by a cliff in the shape of a horseshoe, hence the name. The privately owned 350 acres has been in the same family for generations and has existed in many different forms over the years. It is currently a working horse ranch/resort that attracts people from all over the world - from families on vacation to business people on retreats - who are looking for an authentic, albeit somewhat pampered, Wild West experience.

As far as climbing goes, the owner started allowing access to the cliff to what was at first a small group of mostly local climbers. But as word spread and more and more climbers started showing up, the owner, increasingly worried about accidents, made a decision: if climbers wanted to climb, they would climb safely. He hired an experienced climber to bolt the routes with safety, not esthetics, in mind. As a result, there are over 300 routes varying in difficulty, but consistently offering some of the safest climbing anywhere.

Most routes are in the 5.6-5.12 range making it the perfect place for those wanting to start leading and for more experienced climbers who will love being able to bang off climb after climb after climb. You could easily fit in 20 or more climbs in one day, as there are so many so close together. The rock is sandstone with lots of pockets, jugs and great cracks. There are also some amazing boulder problems on the property including the famous "Witness the Fitness" put up by none other than Chris Sharma and rated (by others, of course) at least V14.

Camping is allowed although there are only 15 sites and it's hard to find an even patch of ground or a bit of shade to escape the sun. That brings up a very important point: do not go in spring or summer as it can get unbearably hot in Arkansas. We're talking an unrelenting, insanity-inducing heat that makes it difficult to climb as your hands can't grip the rock and dehydration can become an issue. It's best to go in the early spring or late fall and it even stays warm enough to climb in the winter.

Back to camping. The fee is $5 a day for camping (and $5 for climbing), which is appropriately low as you don't get much. Facilities include a rather basic outhouse and there are no showers (although there is a rumour that the owner will be building better facilities to accommodate the ever growing number of climber/campers). Fully serviced cabins are available but pricey. Your best bet is to camp at one of the many National Park Services campgrounds nearby. The camping is better and some have shower facilities. But best of all, you can cool off after a day of climbing in the gorgeous Buffalo National River which is lined by stunning limestone rock faces. Enjoy with your eyes only - climbing is not allowed.

One final tip is to stock up on any alcoholic refreshments you might need as the ranch is in a dry county and the nearest liquor store is about a half hour drive away.

You could spend a week at Horseshoe Canyon and still not climb all its routes and there are more going up all the time. As fantastic as the climbing is, there are so many other enjoyable things about this climbing destination. There are the horses roaming the property freely, often stopping to eat grass just a few feet away from where you're belaying. There is also the gorgeous scenery and friendly, southern charm.

So for your next climbing holiday, mosey on over to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and satisfy both the climber and cowboy in you.